Welcome to Zagreb, Croatia
After numerous trips exploring western Europe, I was ready to push further east. I enjoyed my time in the Czech Republic last summer and was curious to visit the Balkans in the southeast corner of the continent.
Zagreb, it turns out, was a perfect starting point.
The capital of Croatia, Zagreb contains nearly a fourth of the country’s population of four million but it doesn’t feel like a big city. It’s flat and compact, nothing seems too far a walk.
There’s lots to see along the way. You quickly conclude the citizens of Zagreb spend much of their time in outdoor cafes and coffee shops filling nearly every corner.
The people themselves have been friendly and social. Most readily speak English or German when you struggle with a word, which is a great thing. Once I get past Dober dan (good day), molim (please), hvala (thank you) and pivo (beer), I’ve about exhausted my grasp of the Croatian language.
Zagreb retains the dignified air of the old Austro Hungarian Empire (hence the tendency for German). It’s grand and “crumbly”, a word I concocted that perfectly sums up the overall architectural feel.
The exchange rate is favorable here too. Although Croatia is in the European Union like neighboring Slovenia, they still use their Kuna rather than the Euro. Prices for things seem about half what they are in Germany or Italy.
After landing at the Zagreb airport on a British Airways flight from London, I whipped out my cell, connected to the airport WiFi and hailed an Uber. My driver arrived quickly but I couldn’t spot his white Volkswagen Golf even though Uber’s app showed I was right on top of it.
As I did a 360 trying to locate the car, I noticed a ridge along the top of the terminal and realized he was parked on the street above me. Hustling up some stairs, I threw my backpack in the car and was soon on the way to central Zagreb.
My Airbnb for three days is a small loft apartment with two beds, shower and a fully-equipped kitchen (I won’t use). It’s clean, quiet and centrally located. Plus, just $40 a night! Airbnb has completely transformed traveling for me.
It took me five minutes to walk to Ban Josip Jelačić, a central square which seems to be the social heart of Zagreb. From there, I could hike north to the old upper town which housed the iconic St. Mark’s Church, Zagreb Cathedral and Lotrščak Tower.
This evening, a short rain shower passed through the area, cooling the air and providing illumination to the cobbled streets. Although summer seems to be lingering with 90-degree temps back home in Oklahoma, I’ve fast-forwarded to fall here. The trees are already beginning to reveal autumn colors.
I stumbled across a festival at Park Zrinjevac and headed for the action. I’ve learned in my travels to dive right in with the locals. You quickly feel a part of the landscape rather than just an observer. Here, in the middle of Zagreb, food and beer tents circled an iron gazebo strung with lights.
A song from the Pretty Woman soundtrack wafted out over the speakers. One thing you realize about the United States when traveling is how our culture is ubiquitous abroad. American music and movies play everywhere.
I read an interesting article about international politics that argued American soft power exerts a larger influence than our hard power (like the military). They may bristle at times at our politics but when pressed, the majority of the world would choose an American way of life over say, China.
Zagreb feels real and lived-in, not like some other glossed up European cities I’ve visited. It doesn’t seem geared toward tourism but rather welcomes you to join in everyday life. I much prefer this authenticity.
I’m looking forward to exploring Zagreb on foot a bit more before picking up my rental car on Tuesday. I’m headed north across the border into Slovenia before returning to Croatia on a drive down the Adriatic coast.
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