Vianden, Luxembourg

We woke Saturday morning to a heavy frost on the vineyards surrounding Bernkastel. After breakfast, we drove an hour west toward the German border with Luxembourg.

Wedged between much-larger neighbors France and Germany, the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg is roughly the size of the U.S. state of Rhode Island.

After suffering invasions and wars between the larger powers for years, Luxembourg’s strong will for mediation helped lead to the foundation of the European Union in 1993.

As we climbed out of the Moselle valley and into Luxembourg, we crossed through areas of snow. Thankfully, it wasn’t heavy and the roads remained clear. It provided a dramatic backdrop once we arrived in the town of Viaden.

It was impossible to miss the imposing Château de Vianden perched on a hill overlooking town. With origins dating from the 10th century, it’s one of the largest fortified castles west of the Rhine.

We carefully walked up the slippery path and through the main gate. Although the castle had fallen into ruin after the 17th century, it had been completely restored by 1990 and was open to visitors.

Amazingly, the castle still served its defenders during World War II. Thirty Luxembourgish anti-Nazi resistance fighters held off 250 soldiers of the Waffen-SS in November, 1944. After heavy fighting around the castle, the Germans finally managed to open the main gate but heavy casualties led them to abandon the fight and withdraw to the other side of the river.

Just one month later, the Germans again marched into the Ardennes to begin the Battle of the Bulge. Hopelessly outnumbered, the resistance fighters at the castle were forced to withdrew to the south of Luxembourg.

Although Luxembourg seemed very German, many of the people we encountered spoke French. It would be interesting to know if that tendency was influenced at all by recent history.

After our drive back to home base in Bernkastel, we had an early dinner at the cozy Märchenhotel.

The town looks completely different at night decked in Christmas lights. As I type this evening, I can hear the crowds below at the Weihnachtsmarkt enjoying Gluhwein while a brass band plays Christmas music.

……….

Thanks again for following along. If you have questions or suggestions, tweet @JasonRMatheson. Missed an entry? Click here.