Toledo, Spain
Just 30 minutes by high-speed train south of Madrid, Toledo (pronounced Toh-LAY-doh) is the historical and cultural heart of Spain. Perched on a hill along a bend of the Tagus river, Toledo is known as the “City of the Three Cultures” for the cultural influences of Christians, Muslims and Jews throughout its history.
There was a bit of a walk from the train station into town but you were rewarded with an incredible view of the stone bridge and entry gate over the river before climbing to Plaza de Zocodover in the center.
In sharp contrast to the modern metropolis of Madrid, Toledo looked (and was) ancient in every nook and cranny. I wandered its maze of narrow cobblestone streets and stopped to admire details like this fishy header over an entry door:
The weather was excellent — sunny and cool. I was simultaneously thankful for my sunglasses and for my fleece pullover while walking down the same street depending if I was in the shade or not.
Toledo was home to painter El Greco (the Greek) for the latter part of his life and is the subject of some of his most famous paintings, including The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, exhibited in the Church of Santo Tomé. I peeked in for a look:
But the real attraction in Toledo was simply soaking up the atmosphere and architecture walking around town.
The Toledo Cathedral, officially the Catedral Primada Santa María de Toledo, is one of three 13th-century High Gothic cathedrals in Spain. It’s considered to be the most impressive. I especially liked the ancient skylight surrounded by statues built to shine on a specific shrine.
The richness of the ornamentation and artifacts clearly illustrated the wealth of Spain and the central power of the Catholic Church.
I was intrigued by this detail. Is this an Incan, Mayan or Aztec head sculpture coated in gold paint on the wall? Spain’s explorers and conquistadors brought gold back across the Atlantic from the New World. They also caused the downfall of those civilizations.
When Cortés and his army began their campaign against the Aztecs in 1519, over 30 million people were living in Mexico. One hundred years later, after a series of smallpox epidemics had decimated the local population, it is estimated only around 1.5–3 million natives survived.
In a time when the vast majority of people were illiterate, pictures told the tales. Here, something akin to an Arkansas Razorback is attempting to drag a woman to Hell by her hair. Woo Pig, Sooie!
Back in the warm sunshine, I started my hike down the hill to Toledo’s train station. Built more than 100 years ago, it’s an architectural treasure itself, certainly a fitting welcome to this ancient town.
After checking the app on my phone, I learned I’d walked nearly 30,000 steps this day. The short ride back to Madrid was extremely comfortable thanks to Renfe, Spain’s national rail.
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