St. Gallen & Appenzell, Switzerland

Saturday brought a flood of Swiss shoppers north across the German border to take advantage of lower prices in Konstanz. I went opposite the flow, headed south and said Grüezi to the Swiss countryside.

Trains in Europe are clean, comfortable and mostly on time (especially the Swiss). I observed the pastoral scenery zipping by while sipping on my latest find from the “Beers of the World” store in the Bahnhof.

Yes, it’s a bit strange to see Bud Lite in the import section.

My first stop was the canton capital of St. Gallen. Cantons are similar to American states with 26 cantons comprising modern Switzerland. In the past, each canton had its own army and money before the federal state was established in 1848. Switzerland’s official name is actually the Swiss Confederation.

The most impressive site in St. Gallen was the Abbey Cathedral of St Gall. Its twin spires towered over the old town. I headed right for it.

I opened a side door and slipped inside. The choir, accompanied by instruments and a massive golden organ, was practicing for Easter Sunday:

It was quite an experience to listen to Handel’s Messiah while gazing up at the baroque swirl of saints and heavenly glory depicted on the cathedral’s ceiling.

The abbey’s library was even more mesmerizing. I slipped on the required protective slippers and glided over the floor. The Rococo interior of the library was composed of curved, polished wood and paint that created a golden glow.

This was one of the most important libraries in the western world. Its collection of handwritten books included 400 over 1000 years old.

The globe displayed what was known of the new world in the late 1500s. There was even an intact Egyptian mummy and her sarcophagus prominently displayed in one corner.

After turning in my slippers and concluding my abbey tour, I hopped back on Swiss Rail and headed into the Alps to the village of Appenzell.

This was pure Switzerland with green meadows, snow-capped peaks and cow bells. One shop in Appenzell even featured a mad army of garden gnomes.

As I walked down the main street, I was transported back to an Auburn football tailgate. The local butcher shop was grilling bratwurst on the sidewalk and it smelled fantastic. I promptly paid the man and soon had lunch in hand with a side of spicy mustard.

Inside one shop I explored a cozy drinking room in the back. It was completely paneled in wood with a huge stove in the corner to survive cold Swiss winters. Drinking glasses were kept in a special cupboard mounted to the wall.

Observing their setup prompted me to find a seat at an outdoor cafe and sample the local beer. How can you miss when it’s naturtrüb and quöllfrisch?

The Appenzell Bier brewery was situated just across the street, practically begging me to investigate their museum and gift shop.

After a full day exploring both the saintly and hedonistic sides of the Swiss, I relaxed on my train ride back across the German border to Konstanz.

Uf Widerluege!

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