Roskilde, Denmark

Sub-$500 round-trip flights from Tulsa to Europe have been getting harder to find but I managed to land a deal with Air France several months ago to Copenhagen. That’s how I found myself in Denmark in early April.

I’d been to Copenhagen in January of 2022 on my first exploration of Scandinavia via train. But without a car, my Danish experience was limited to the capital city.

I’d guess that’s the case for most visitors despite excellent rail connections to the rest of the country. Or perhaps they just assume Denmark is basically Copenhagen. Of course, that’s like thinking the United States is just New York or L.A. (actually, not too surprising considering the American TV shows shipped over here).

I knew I wanted to see Denmark beyond Copenhagen. I’d reserved a small car several weeks ago for that purpose and it was patiently waiting for me at the airport. I loaded my backpacks, adjusted the mirrors and was about to pull out when I realized I’d failed to download Google Maps segments of the country to my phone for offline use.

Thankfully, the city of Roskilde was large enough to feature on highway signage. It would be old-fashioned route-making for me on the first day of this trip.

After an uneventful 30-minute drive, I located my Airbnb, unpacked and then hiked a couple blocks to the main square in Roskilde. With a celebration Grimbergen beer in hand, I soaked up the late afternoon sun as incomprehensible Danish conversations swirled around me.

I quickly concluded Roskilde had been a great choice to base myself for a few days. Grocery stores and unpretentious cafes were within easy walking distance. Plus, the city boasted a mighty cathedral — the Domkirke — and a Viking ship museum.

One of the country’s oldest cities, Roskilde developed as a hub of Viking land and sea trade routes more than a thousand years ago. It served as the capital of Denmark until 1443.

Despite all that history, Roskilde seemed surprisingly off the tourist trail. Granted, April is not prime travel season this far north — that will come with summer. It seemed I had the city to myself and most importantly, this felt like a genuine Danish experience.

As I explored the quiet roads and neighborhoods, I slowed down and began to notice the interesting details that always fascinate me in Europe. The street signs in particular caught my attention.

Danish, being a Germanic language, provided clues I could piece together. I knew I was getting close to the harbor when I saw “Havn” in the name (in German it would be “Hafen”).

Sure enough, I was soon surrounded by modern boats and outdoor exhibits supporting the Viking Ship Museum. The area was completely accessible without a locked gate in sight. I took my time examining hulls in various stages of construction replicating Viking-era designs.

There was even an area for visiting children to build their own toy boats, complete with cut-your-arm-off saws.

On an outdoor table, I studied this ornately-carved piece. I guessed it to be entertainment. Is this the Viking version of the jump-the-golf-tee game that keeps you occupied while your party waits for its table at Cracker Barrel? Sadly, there was no Dane around to ask.

As the sun waned, I climbed a low hill surrounding the harbor to inspect the colorful houses I’d seen from below. Many were topped with traditional thatched roofs.

Hygge is a word in Danish and Norwegian that describes a mood of coziness and comfortable conviviality with feelings of wellness and contentment. If you could convey that feeling in a house, there were plenty of examples in Roskilde.

The weather has been cool but dry and sunny which I’m always thankful for in early spring in Europe, especially this far north. I’ve saved several museums and indoor options for when the inevitable rainy day shows up. Until then, I’ll keep hiking Roskilde.

I’m actually on a large island called Zealand. There are several day trips to castles and coastline within easy driving distance. They should all serve to provide a broader perspective of Denmark.

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