Prague in Depth
This summer has been abnormally hot and dry in Europe. Of course, ice cubes and air conditioning are not common here so I’ve been looking for ways to avoid the heat. I got up early this morning to do the majority of my hiking in the cooler temps. It gets light here around 5:30 so there’s plenty of time.
Prague is one of the few major central European cities which didn’t suffer major damage in World War II. The old town is a web of narrow cobblestone lanes and historic architecture. I can’t help but think the beauty here emphasizes just how much was irretrievably lost in other cities.
I walked through an almost empty Old Town Square and crossed the famous Charles Bridge lined with statues. Ahead on the hill loomed Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral.
I watched the changing of the guard at the top of the hour in front of the castle. The President of the Czech Republic recently decreed that the guard could wear light uniforms in this summer heat instead of dark blue. Does this really look that much cooler?
As the day warmed up, I slowed down. After hiking back down the hill, I sat and watched a small boat cross the Vltava River. I observed the delicate shadows of the iron gates at Vyšehrad Castle stretch across the cobblestones. I inspected the intricate pink and gray doors at Saint Peter and Paul Basilica.
Prague is full of monuments and sculptures. As I wound through the streets, I came across a monument to the Czech experience during WWII. It was especially poignant if you remember history. Czechoslovakia was partitioned in the Munich Agreement of 1938 between Nazi Germany and the Western powers without even being invited to the negotiating table.
The monument showed a red, white and blue Czech flag pulled apart at its seams. It vividly communicated the “about us, without us” reaction of the people here as Great Britain and France sought to appease Hitler over the Sudetenland. Eventually, it was all for naught.
I walked through a Czech cemetery and noticed this interesting detail. Look how the months and days are embedded within the year. Here, the day goes before the month so August 7, 2018 would be written 07.08.18. Josef was born then on February 29, 1852, a leap day birth:
I dropped in again at my local grocery store to pick up a few things. I was intrigued by this packaging in the refrigerated section. What is the soldier smiling about? Do I want to try a civilian version of a cold salad ration? I’ll investigate. The price looks high but remember, one dollar is about 22 Kč.
I’ve learned to ask “do you speak English?” in Czech. It just seems more polite to at least show a bit of respect for their language. It sounds something like: “Mluveech anglitzky?” Definitely sounds like a Slavic language.
After all the German, no, Czech doesn’t come naturally. But I’m trying.
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