Pierrefonds, France
We departed our Airbnb in Laon this morning and drove down the N2 to the village of Pierrefonds. The fastest French highways, beginning with an “A” designation like the A16, are toll roads. We’re not in that big of a hurry (plus we get to experience our fill of toll roads back in Oklahoma).
The N2 took us quickly enough in our little Fiat with a twisty country road taking us on into Pierrefonds. Before we got to town, we could see turrets from the Château de Pierrefonds rising in the distance.
Although the French word for ‘château’ is generally translated as castle it is more likely to mean a country house or a manor house. This château was definitely a castle.
The original was built around 1400. It was besieged in 1617 and remained a ruin for almost two centuries. Napoleon (yes, THAT Napoleon) bought it in 1810 for less than 3,000 francs.
His nephew, Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte, visited the castle in 1850 and later as emperor ordered it restored by famed French architect Viollet-le-Duc. The architect restored many prominent medieval landmarks in France, including those which had been damaged or abandoned during the French Revolution.
I hiked around the perimeter of the castle enjoying views of the town of Pierrefonds in the valley below. Again, the late-summer weather has been perfect here.
In town, we lingered over lunch at a restaurant in the square. The French take their time during meals. Lunch can easily be a two-hour affair. The waiters never hurry you along. We ordered a couple of Belgian Leffe beers to sip as we watched hikers, bikers and townsfolk go by.
The town of Pierrefonds would be worth visiting even without its massive castle. It was quiet and slow-paced with barely any traffic. One of those places you want to walk around, admiring the views.
Alas, no walking in tall grass or hamburger “pique-niques” allowed here…
One ornately decorated house in town caught my eye and I took some time to absorb its architectural details. We’ve noticed the French in general seem to add a bit of personal style to every house, no matter how humble. This one had style in loads with sea creatures, swirling iron and a grand entrance door.
Imagine coming home to a place like this!
Pierrefonds was a pleasant surprise and an enjoyable way to spend our afternoon as we made our way west from Laon to our hotel in Beauvais.
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