Nuremberg, Germany
I was riding from Bamberg to Regensburg on the train this morning but I hopped off when we pulled into Nuremberg. I could spend the day in this interesting city and then travel on to my hotel later in the evening.
Nuremberg held great significance to the Nazis due to the city’s central location in Germany and its mystical relevance to the Holy Roman Empire. Hitler declared Nuremberg the “most German” of German cities and Nazi Party rallies were held here from 1923 through 1938. The rally for 1939 was to begin on September 2 but Germany invaded Poland the day before and it was called off.
Zeppelin Field, where the massive demonstrations were held, is ingrained in our minds from Leni Riefenstahl’s Triumph of the Will propaganda film. The movie was created from footage of the 1934 rally.
Today, the rally grounds are purposely not maintained by German taxpayers, nearly crumbling into ruin. Signs around the area warn “enter at your own risk”. Some of the grandstands were destroyed but much remains.
Standing at the massive rostrum and looking out over the expansive parade grounds, it’s not hard to imagine thousands of people worked up to a frenzy.
From Zeppelin Field, you walk around Dutzendteich Lake to the U-shaped Kongresshalle. Work ground to a halt when the war started and the building, with seating planned for 50,000, was forever left without a roof. A new museum was built into the remains, documenting Nuremberg’s unique role in the Nazi era.
The architectural design of the museum itself was fascinating. It purposely cut into the Nazi structure at a severe angle, physically rejecting the previous form. Inside, modern glass and steel contrasted sharply with the old brick and stone. Large photos floated in front of the walls.
One exhibit vividly demonstrated how Nazi ideology was indoctrinated at a very young age. Below are children’s drawings disparaging the Jews.
The role of the United States in liberating Nuremberg, the post-war trials symbolically held here and the decades-long presence of the American army in the city were also well documented.
There was a stand selling bratwurst near the lake and I stopped to have lunch. I was surprised to see this little cart behind one of the local’s bikes.
On January 2, 1945, Nuremberg’s medieval center was systematically bombed by the British and Americans. Almost ninety percent was destroyed in just one hour. Practically everything you see today was painstakingly rebuilt from the ruins.
Today, Nuremberg is the second-largest city in Bavaria (after Munich). The castle overlooking the city provided quite a view.
While I was inside the castle, a photographer was busy taking wedding (or engagement) photos of a happy German couple in traditional dress.
There were all kinds of interesting details throughout Nuremberg as I poked in and out of old churches and wandered down cobblestone streets:
I was very glad to see the new museum confronting the Nazi era head-on at the rally grounds. It was similar to the museum I previously showed you in Berchtesgaden. Both were extremely thorough. The entry fees were low and there were plenty of people carefully absorbing the exhibits.
After exploring Nuremberg, I finished my train ride to Regensburg. I’ll get up in the morning and set out for the old town. The weather here in early October has been perfect, cool and sunny. Most importantly, no rain!
