Mont Saint-Michel, France
Seafood in the Brittany port of Cancale and a pilgrimage to the top of the 10th-century abbey on Mont Saint-Michel. Even if we carried a baguette home from the boulangerie, I don’t think we could get more French than today.
Overcast skies greeted our arrival in the fishing village of Cancale but the weather wasn’t discouraging those intent on enjoying lunch along the sea wall. We seated ourselves at a small restaurant and, thanks to the help of a friendly waitress who spoke a bit of English, put together our order.
Out came platters of fresh shrimp, oysters and escargot paired with wine and the obligatory bread basket. Remember, you can’t be timid overseas, it’s time to try new things. After quietly observing the patrons around us, we took their lead and dove in. Ice cream certainly helped to cap off the meal.
After a stroll around the harbor, we hopped back in the car and headed around the bay to the medieval marvel of Mont Saint-Michel. The 10th-century abbey and village were perched high on a rocky island surrounded by thick defensive walls. At high tide, water surrounded the fortress.
We whisked across a low-slung bridge connecting the mainland to the island on a clever transportation system. Once the driver delivered passengers, he climbed out, walked to the other end and got behind another steering wheel, ready to drive in the opposite direction. This bus could be driven from either end. No need to turn around!
Mont Saint-Michel seemed to rise from the horizon like an apparition. I could only imagine the thoughts of peasants and humble pilgrims hundreds of years ago when they first laid eyes on this staggering monument of Christendom.
As we neared the city walls, we turned left, breaking away from the crowd. A small, arched entry led us up inclined ramparts rather than the steep stairs dominating the main route. Nonetheless, it was work to make it to the top.
With the tide out, we could see clusters of visitors far out on the mud flats led by trusted guides. This bay is the site of the highest tides in Europe, nearly 50 feet. Many unfortunate souls (including would-be invaders) over the years drowned or went down in quicksand as the ocean returned at the speed of a galloping horse.
Safely inside the deep recesses of the abbey, we explored dark and mysterious Gothic rooms. Shadows played on the walls here, like behind the Gallic rooster, a symbol of France.
The small cloister with its jolting patch of green grass opening to the sky provided a welcome respite from all the stone. Get this, groups of monks would walk inside a large wooden wheel (like hamsters) to pull sleds filled with rock up ramps to help build the abbey ever higher, closer to God.
Once we completed our tour of the abbey, the trip down Mont Saint-Michel was much easier. Returning to the car park, I couldn’t help checking out some European rides. The monks would understand, right?
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