Madrid, Spain
It was impossible to pass up Delta’s airfare deal from Tulsa to the Iberian Peninsula, especially in November as it gets colder back home. That’s how I found myself eagerly exploring this southwestern corner of Europe, even if my high school Spanish had faded considerably.
They say if you try to learn another language before you’ve mastered an earlier study, the latest attempt overwrites the first. German pushed aside, hiking Madrid brought back a flood of linguistic memories — or perhaps I just recognized various phrases from Spanish signs and menus back home.
Regardless, I’ve felt instantly comfortable here in Spain. The people are warm, especially if you greet them with respect in their language (well, duh). The younger Spaniards may eagerly jump to English after the first American-accented “Buenos días” but the older folks seem to appreciate the effort.
Madrid’s airport was conveniently connected to the city’s vast Metro and even with jet lag, I managed three lines and two exchanges to my apartment in the historic center. It certainly helped that I downloaded the Metro map to my phone and studied before landing.
After dropping my backpack at the apartment in Plaza de la Villa, I set out to soak up as much daylight as possible. Fighting the urge to sleep on the first day across the pond in my experience helps to acclimate you faster.
I ventured down the street to Madrid’s monumental Catedral de la Almudena and quietly slipped inside. While most tourists congregated on the steps leading up to the towering gold shrine at the front, I fixated on a massive wavy shell at the entrance offering holy water.
Someone had expertly crafted a metal retaining clip to perfectly fit the contours of this individual work of nature.
I noticed ample evidence of Spanish craftsmanship surrounding me in Madrid. Back in Plaza de la Villa, an ancient wooden door studded with decorative starbursts lured me into the darkness. Inside, as my eyes adjusted, I was surprised by a small chapel. I slipped into a pew, trying not to disturb the faithful.
In the relative silence, something behind caused me to turn my head. I could just make out several nuns observing the scene behind a lacy metal viewing platform. After a few moments I deemed respectful enough, I crept back outside to examine the door hardware more closely.
Just south of the historic center of the city stretched the interesting La Latina neighborhood. Full of narrow winding streets, the area teemed with historic pastel buildings and enticing tapas bars.
For those uninitiated by their now world-wide popularity, tapas are essentially snacks to accompany your afternoon drinks. However, they’ve evolved and elevated into their own distinct cuisine.
You can sample a wide variety of flavors for relatively little money. Tapas are incredibly social too with many people at a table sharing various creations.
The Spanish food scene seemed more communal to me, especially as I walked past the eateries lining the busy streets of Madrid. I’ve always enjoyed what I termed the “fair food” of a proper German Marktplatz and Spain seemed to offer the same unstuffy options.
La Torre del Oro, a tiny bar I ducked into immediately off Plaza Mayor, was crammed with bullfighting mementos and ringed with stuffed bull heads staring down from above. Obligatory olives accompanied my beer.
I sampled churros dipped in decadent chocolate sauce at the venerable San Ginés and nibbled fried squid at an outdoor table in Plaza de Santa Ana (no need to avert your eyes Texans, the square was named after a former monastery and not the Mexican general of Alamo infamy).
I hiked east along Madrid’s famed Calle Gran Vía past imposing buildings recalling Spain’s imperial past to explore even older history at the National Archaeological Museum. For a paltry three Euro, I examined artifacts unearthed in the Iberian Peninsula from pre-history through Roman Hispania and the age of the Moors.
My curiosity was satisfied after a few hours at the museum. I hiked back west with a detour through the massive El Retiro park and a quick study of the Palacio de Cristal.
I’m excited to explore more of Madrid in the upcoming week and hop on a few trains to nearby towns. After that, I’ll grab a car and head south to the region of Andalusia. Perhaps Portugal beckons beyond that — stay tuned.
¡Hasta luego!
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