Görlitz, Bautzen & Poland
I ventured further east in the world than I ever have in my life today. I rode the train to the German border with Poland to explore the town of Görlitz. Of course “east” is relative to wherever you call home but this was it for me.
Tucked away in the corner of Germany, Görlitz was spared widespread destruction during World War II. The town did suffer under East German rule with the numerous historical buildings falling into disrepair. Happily, some 80% have been restored since German reunification in 1990.
It’s a beautiful, peaceful place and well off the beaten tourist path. Actually, you’ve seen this town in many movies. One example: The Grand Budapest Hotel was shot here with an old, extravagant department store stepping in as the hotel. So was Quentin Tarantino’s Inglourious Basterds.
Görlitz just looks “European”. It’s been given the nickname “Görliwood” because so many Hollywood films have used it as a set. There’s a rumor that several A-list actors have contributed money to the town’s restoration, which I think is great. I did note an unusual number of Germans wearing American flag designs on their shirts today. Maybe I’m just attuned to noticing that.
Beyond the buildings, I’m intrigued by architectural details and Görlitz was full of interesting markers, door knobs, signs and carvings. Of course the German attention to detail is legendary.
I thought this was a clever door handle for a bakery:
I also noticed many Germans sweeping up in front of their homes or apartments, keeping everything tidy. Here, you’re responsible for cleaning the public sidewalk in front of your place. I’ve always though the doorways in Europe had a lot of personality.
As I mentioned, Görlitz is directly on the river separating Germany from Poland. It’s the eastern-most city in all the Vaterland. Of course I was curious and had to walk across the bridge to visit this other country so close at hand.
I don’t speak Polish which is a Slavic language and vastly different from German or English. Poland is a recent member of the European Union (thus the open border bridge) but it hasn’t adopted the Euro. Without any money or language skills, I just kept walking and looking.
It’s fascinating how something arbitrary like a small river can separate completely different cultures. The ducks swimming below the bridge floated back and forth oblivious to the two worlds they occupied.
Funny story: a Polish girl on a bike brushed my arm while riding on a gravel path. She started apologizing in Polish and I waved my hand, replying in German “alles gut”. She then switched to German and kept apologizing profusely. To her, I passed as German.
Returning across the river to the German side, it struck me how everything is relative. Despite the crazy run-on words, umlauts and lack of ice cubes or AC in this heat, Germany instantly felt much more comfortable. I’m at ease here.
I did jump off the train on the way back to Dresden to wander the streets of Bautzen for a few hours. But it was hot, my feet hurt and I needed something to drink. I mentioned the lack of air conditioning in Germany. Most people here think it’s ridiculous how much energy America uses on AC. Of course, they’ve never tried to survive a summer in Oklahoma or Alabama.
How in the world did people do it back in the day? Looking at old photos, folks always seemed to be wearing so many heavy clothes!
Germans also have a fear of moving air inside a house. All form of ailments and calamities will befall you if you’re exposed to a draft. They’re the first to jump up on a stifling hot train and shut up the windows. Of course, the same Germans will happily hike outdoors in all sorts of weather.
It makes no sense…
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