Exploring Stockholm, Sweden
After my start to Sweden in the University town of Uppsala, I headed south on the train to Stockholm, the nation’s capital and largest city. I’d compare Stockholm’s knockout setting on the Baltic to Seattle back in the States: plenty of beautiful islands and lots of water (just substitute snow for rain and ABBA for Nirvana).
I woke up this morning to snow lightly tapping the window above my bed in the hotel. I’d requested the top floor (no Herman Heavyfoots above) and my ceiling sloped crazily with the roof. European windows tend to be incredibly functional. I could tilt open the one on my ceiling to peer out over the snowy rooftops and church steeples of Stockholm.
Living happily so far north, the Swedes contend there’s no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothes. The idea is that no matter what it’s doing outside, if you dress properly, you’ll be fine. Of course I’m from a latitude much further south and when snow is biting you in the face, it’s time to go inside for Fika.
I haven’t told you about Fika? It’s a cherished tradition in Sweden to take a break or two during the day and enjoy a coffee and pastry with friends and family. While we Americans are working overtime, Swedes have perfected work-life balance and prioritize time to socialize. They’ve realized, in the long run, happier workers are more productive workers. Take notes USA.
I’m staying on an island in central Stockholm called Gamla Stan, literally “Old Town”. Back in the Middle Ages, this island WAS the city of Stockholm, complete with protective walls. Now, it’s a trip to the past with narrow, cobblestone streets full of pedestrians and carefully preserved buildings dating back hundreds of years. It’s the historic heart to a cutting-edge, modern city.
It proved a compact and enjoyable way to ease into Stockholm. I spent my first full day here wandering the alleyways, peeking in shop windows and enjoying the relative shelter the buildings provided me from the blowing snow.
One attraction lured me out of cozy Gamla Stan. I bundled up to hike over several bridges to the island of Djurgården. The Vasa Museum certainly delivered as a must-see in Stockholm.
In the 1620s, when Sweden was an aggressive European power, King Gustavus Adolphus ordered a mighty warship designed with not one, but two gun decks. On the day of its maiden voyage in 1628, the hold proved too shallow and the magnificent ship tipped over from a light breeze and promptly sank in the harbor in full view of horrified Stockholmers.
The ship settled into the soft mud below the surface of the Baltic waters. More than 300 years later the shipwreck was rediscovered and the Vasa was raised to the surface in 1961, remarkably preserved. Sweden built a massive museum to house the Vasa which opened in 1990.
Immediately when you enter the darkened building, the ship looms in front of you. I greatly enjoyed the design of the museum with multiple floors to view the Vasa from every angle, above and below. I spent several hours immersed in the exhibits and pondering the ornate carvings covering the ship. Note the roaring lions’ heads that were revealed when the cannon ports were opened. These were specifically designed to frighten and intimidate enemies.
The Vasa was originally much more colorful. A nearby model of the ship demonstrated its rich paintwork that was eventually worn away by the sea.
An estimated 30 people died when the ship sank, many trapped below deck. Surprisingly, not all the bones recovered were men. Scientists determined there were several women and children on board that day, perhaps family of the crew enjoying what they thought would be a memorable maiden voyage.
It certainly proved memorable.
Clothing, shoes, tools, money and spoons in pockets (eating with forks was just coming into fashion in Europe) were all recovered and displayed expertly. I enjoyed the full-size section of the ship you could walk through, although you had to duck to keep from grazing your head on the beams above. People were generally shorter back in the 1600s.
Cutaways revealed the fatal flaw to the ship’s design: not enough hull and ballast below the water. The Vasa was doomed because she was top heavy. No one dared tell the King his specifications were faulty during construction.
The museum dutifully explained the symbolism of the figures and carvings. I also enjoyed learning about the various technical aspects of warships from the 17th century including how the rigging worked. Two toilets for the sailors were located in perilous spots out on the bow so the ocean waves would naturally clean the facilities.
Finally, there was a touching little green statue of King Gustavus off to the side offering up a prayer that evidently wasn’t answered.
By the time I hiked back to Gamla Stan, the sky was getting dark. The sun sets around 4 p.m. this time of year due to Stockholm’s northern latitude. But that’s better than back in December when the city received just six hours of daylight. Of course, around the summer solstice, it might not ever really get dark here for 24 hours so it balances out.
European cities seem magical at night to me. You appreciate the timelessness of places like old Stockholm, especially as you walk down a deserted alley listening to the sound of your boots crunching on snow, just hoping Jack the Ripper isn’t lurking in some darkened corner. Seriously, Sweden might be one of the safest countries on earth.
I found a great little pizza place (thanks TripAdvisor) and enjoyed a quiet early dinner. Scandinavia can be expensive but my hotel provided a hearty breakfast as part of the stay. I usually do one meal out, snack at other times and I’m fine. I’d rather give my business to a local mom-and-pop place instead of some stuffy restaurant anyway.
My walk back to the hotel allowed me to look in more shop windows. Most were closed since this was Sunday night. I’ll explore some when they’re open this week.
Tomorrow, I’d like to the see the Stockholm city hall and the Nobel Prize museum. Perhaps the snow will come to an end and I can break out my shorts.
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