Colmar to Hunawihr, France
The Alsace is full of interesting old villages hidden in valleys of the foothills of the Vosges mountains. Many have German-sounding names in this contested region between France and her Teutonic neighbor.
I spent the day driving slowly from one town to the next, stopping to explore on foot those which looked the most interesting. Although Strasbourg is the largest city in the Alsace, Colmar draws visitors to its well-preserved old town.
I arrived early in the morning and explored the town before the tour groups arrived. The sun was streaming through the chapel’s stained glass windows, heightening the golden glow of the angels swirling overhead on the ceiling.
The architecture in the Alsace definitely leans German. It’s a lasting reminder that this area was under German rule intermittently for centuries. Today though, it’s thoroughly France with the tricolor flying alongside the EU flag.
One shop displayed military artifacts from the region with Prussian prints, French medals and World War II photos. Look at the reaction in this photo as American and French forces liberated Colmar from the Nazis on February 2, 1945. More than 8,000 Americans died in the fighting around this town.
It was time for lunch so I assembled cheese, wine and fresh bread from a local shop and found a quiet, sunny spot just below the fortified walls of the church in Huniwihr. Vineyards stretched to the horizon in every direction and the only sounds were twittering birds and bells sounding out the hour.
Europe doesn’t have to be expensive. I believe it’s actually better going the down-to-earth route. It sure allows you to experience the real place. After a simple meal with an incredible view, I hiked back down to my tiny car and drove along the road a few kilometers to explore the quiet town of Riquewihr.
My favorite town of the day though was Kaysersberg. The name is a French corruption of Kaiser’s mountain in German. Sure enough, there were castle ruins high above town.
In Kaysersberg, there was a large group of people, each with a wine glass tied around their necks. I deduced it was some sort of wine-tasting tour where they stopped in each village to sample the local offering. It looked like they were having a great time (how could you not?).
I noticed several references to the American assistance in liberating the Alsace during World War II in most of the towns. Every now and then, driving on the winding roads here, I pass an old vintage Jeep.
I always think it’s interesting to see how America is depicted overseas. Here was an old gumball machine where you might receive a piece “from” the USA, England, France or Switzerland. Appropriately, our slot showed the Star and Stripes, a Revolutionary War scene and the Statue of Liberty. I found it interesting the English slot showed Scottish golfers (ha).
As I headed back to my Airbnb in Husseren-les-Châteaux, I made a final stop in the neighboring town of Eguisheim. It still had an intact and complete ring of old houses which followed the original circle of the medieval town walls.
Eguisheim was blessed with multiple stork nests. Storks are symbols of good luck and fertility in the Alsace. I had no idea that storks migrate long distances, sometimes up to 15,000 kilometers (some from as far away as South Africa). Storks also return to the same nests their entire lives. So they’re a big deal when they choose to make their temporary home here in the Alsace.
After a full and memorable day, I made the final drive back up to Husseren-les-Châteaux (or “Chateaux” as I have it saved in my GPS). It’s amazing how quickly foreign places can feel comfortable and familiar.
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