Châteaux & Amboise, France

After exploring the Brittany peninsula, we headed back into the interior of France to stay along the Loire Valley. The river that flows through the valley has historically marked the line between northern and southern France.

In the 1500s, wealthy and powerful Parisians built their châteux in this valley. Our first stop was Château d’Azay to the southwest of Tours. Among the numerous beautiful châteaux in the area, this one stood out to me for its idyllic setting on an island in the middle of a flowing river. Here, the landscape design was as impressive as the architecture.

We strolled a gravel path around the grounds taking in different angles and reflections in the river as the château seemed to float above the water. Inside, you crossed creaky floors through lavish rooms full of ornately-carved furniture and portraits of stiff French nobility lining the walls.

During the Renaissance, a painted portrait was a sign of power and wealth. With no photography, this was the only way to circulate and preserve your likeness down through the ages.

Later, we made our way to the city of Amboise (pronounced Am-bwahs), famous as the place where Leonardo da Vinci lived (and ultimately died) at the invitation of King Francis I of France. The king’s Château d’Amboise dominated the town. I appreciated the small iPads they provided you to help visualize the spaces as they were 500 years ago.

The Amboise château occupied a commanding spot on the top of the hill overlooking town and river. Evidently the fortifications were once much more extensive but had been reduced through years of war and uprising.

Massive gargoyles guarded all angles of the castle. Many of the stone carvings of people inside had been defaced during the French Revolution. At the end of the 1700s, peasants rose up and took out their frustrations on all symbols of royal and church authority.

In one bedroom, a massive painting depicted the death of Leonardo da Vinci who lived the final three years of his life in Amboise. Perched on the top of the soaring castle ramparts stood the chapel of Saint Hubert, the presumed site of Leonardo’s remains.

The chapel may have lacked in size but its flamboyant gothic architecture was exceptional. Snarling gargoyles and intricate carvings surrounded you as you passed through massive wooden doors. The tile floor, covered in thoroughly French fleur-de-lis, was worn from countless feet shuffling through over the centuries. Da Vinci’s simple tomb occupied a quiet corner.

Our Airbnb in Amboise is situated above a brewery. We made our way downstairs and sampled local beers with a collection of cheese and meats. A very nice way to end an interesting day in central France. Au revoir!

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