Bernkastel-Kues, Germany
As we headed out of the Rhine valley away from Boppard, we investigated a sprawling, abandoned complex overlooking town. I was intrigued by the old Iron Cross at the entry. One rusty gate was wide open.
A street sign indicated this was Marienberg, a former Benedictine abbey. Later research revealed the complex was pressed into service as a Reichsfinanzschule during the Nazi era. It suffered bomb damage during World War II.
Today, it sits empty and crumbling. The state government and current owner are locked in a legal battle over financing for restoration. Marienberg is another beautiful place in Germany with a complicated history.
Just up the hill from Boppard, we discovered a cluster of memorials to three wars. The green plaques honored the dead from the Franco-Prussian War of 1870, the stone plaques named the fallen from World War I and the clear, curved glass walls listed the many casualties of World War II.
After that sobering stop, we drove to the southwest toward the Moselle River valley. Our final Airbnb was located in the village of Bernkastle-Kues. After parking the car, we hiked up five flights of stairs to the top of Haus Astor right next to the church tower that defines the skyline.
From our front window, we could look out over the Moselle River and the bridge that connects Bernkastel with the village of Kues on the other side.
When we descended down the steps in the morning, we opened the door to a Christmas Market stall grilling up bratwurst right outside.
Bernkastel’s Weihnachtsmarkt draws people from across the region. We explored the narrow streets with French, British and German visitors. In the evening, the town gathered in the market square for the latest window to be opened on the front of the house serving as a huge Advent calendar.
With brass bands playing traditional Christmas music and bouts of light snow dusting the town, it’s no wonder Bernkastel serves as a holiday destination.
From one of our windows, we can look down on the large crowd gathered around the main stage and Gluwein stall. It’s not warm outside but at least folks are warm on the inside after a few mugs of steaming mulled wine.
I’m not a big fan of the Gluhwein (I think it tastes like warm prune juice) so we found a welcoming Brauhaus just down the road along the river. The Kloster Machern abbey serves (heavenly) beer brewed by the monks.
We took home one of their paper menus to study so we can be prepared when we return another evening. Tomorrow morning, we’re headed west to visit Luxembourg.
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