Český Krumlov & České Budějovice
I headed deep into the southern part of Bohemia to explore a remarkably preserved Czech town. I also missed my train later in the afternoon so I got a bonus town thrown in on the way back.
Český Krumlov is the second-most visited place in the entire Czech Republic after Prague. With good reason. This preserved medieval town hugs an impossibly tight curve of the Vltava River. The dramatic setting and historic architecture make for an irresistible draw.
Český Krumlov fell into disrepair during Czechoslovakia’s communist era but much of the old buildings have been restored since the Velvet Revolution. The entire core of the town is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.
I wandered through the cobblestone streets for several hours. The morning started with heavy clouds and a little rain but the sun broke through in the afternoon. With all the hiking, I was ready for lunch.
I’d read a blog review about this family-run restaurant in the heart of the old town and decided to give it a try. My corner table was tiny, more like a bench, but I liked it because I had it all to myself. The Czechs (and Germans) tend to share tables in restaurants and it can all get a bit too familiar for me.
I ordered chicken stuffed with ham and gorgonzola cheese with a side of ubiquitous roasted potatoes. Like any good Czech town worth its salt, Český Krumlov brewed its own beer. I had two pours. It hit the spot.
After lunch, I hiked up the hill to the castle and climbed the spiral stairs to the top of the tower. Incredible views all around.
I was so wrapped up in the setting, I completely lost track of time. The train station was up a steep hill and I missed my express back to Prague by at least 30 minutes. Here I am chilling on the platform at Český Krumlov’s tiny station. Note that no one else made the same mistake…
When you’re waiting on the train, you have time to inspect all the posters. Back in Dresden, I noticed The Incredibles were called the The Unbelievables in German. Here they were translated to The Amazings in Czech.
To burn more time, I located the station beer garden, grabbed a stein and listened in as these two older gentlemen told each other some incredible tales. They must have been pretty good (or the beer was pretty good) because they laughed loudly. Of course, I just nodded my head. I didn’t understand a lick.
I had an open ticket back to Prague and my backup train was definitely NOT an express. It stopped at every little town. So I decided to make the best of it and jumped off at České Budějovice. This was the home and namesake of the original Budweiser beer.
They’ve been brewing the Budweiser here since the 13th century as the imperial brewery for the Holy Roman Emperor. Anheuser-Busch tried to buy out the brewery to control the name worldwide but the Czech government refused. They consider the original Budweiser a source of national pride.
Although the Czech Republic is by all means a modern society, I still notice little throwbacks like the sign below. Other countries might use a generic human shape for crossing symbols but the Czechs use the silhouette of a man from the 1950s complete with jaunty hat. Remember the Ampelmann symbol back in Berlin? I think they’re related.
In the end, I’m glad I missed the train and had the opportunity to see České Budějovice. Who knows when I’ll be back this way again? I read that the Americans and Russians met in this same square at the end of World War II.
Riding late back to Prague, it felt like I had the entire train to myself. I believe there may have been one other person in a private compartment on the opposite end of my rail car. I pulled down the window and enjoyed the Czech countryside as it glided by.
Can’t ask for anything better than a vivid sunset to cap a memorable day in southern Bohemia.
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Thanks for coming along on the trip. If you have questions or suggestions, tweet @JasonRMatheson. Missed an entry? Click here.
